Our first stop Santa Cruz, not the administrative capital, but certainly the centre of everything that makes up this archipelago on the Equator. Numerous islands to visit and so much wildlife at your doorstep, it is sometimes bewildering. The government (hard to work out whether Equador or Galapagos) has regulated almost everything. The national park remains at the centre of every notion, from preservation, through ecology, to tourism, all underpinned by bureaucracy. To the unseasoned eye, there might seem an element of free enterprise going on. It doesn't take long to work out that everything ticks to the governmental clock, not always terribly quickly.
Our first experience was classic. We arrived on the NE coast of Santa Cruz island purposely just after sunrise. We motored down the coast, getting a feel of the desolate landscape of volcanic Galapagos. Passed Gordon Rocks, passed Caamano Islet, a long sandy beach here and there, then round to the south, and into Puerto Ayora, seemingly the mecca of tourist boats. Caught up in the bureaucracy of boat visas, we paid our king's ransom for a one port entry. Laros has stayed at anchor, sturdily, in one spot for our 20 day stay, with tourist and dive motor boats coming and going, some in the middle of the night, and some in most unseamanlike ways. The process of inspection, though, has to be THE bureaucratic highlight. Within 2 hours of arrival, 6 officials had boarded Laros, with a 7th diver inspecting the hull -lucky we had been warned to reclean the waterline as soon as we arrived! Why we were treated to a doctor's visit, we remain to understand, except he did remove all out of date medicines, much to Deb's annoyance. While Johnny signed his life away, the diver gave the thumbs up, all clean. No fumigation required for Laros, stories abound from other boats having to leave the boat for 4 hours after. We passed all requirements. Entry complete. The government hand satiated, for the time being. Go see the Islands!
So we did. Poor Philip had to depart almost as soon as he arrived, to catch his flight from the north island of Baltra. Tony had more days available. So, we 3 remaining decided upon a few days in Santa Cruz followed by 3 days/2 nights on Isabella the largest island to the west, reached by fast small motor boat ferry. There we swam with turtles, sealions and rays close to the harbour, walked to and around the volcano Cerro Nero and Cinco, and lazily strolled the length of playa Salinas. Pelicans and iguanas abound, so close to be within touch. A beautiful, quiet, unspoilt island in slowly succumbing to modern tourism. We stayed in a lovely B&B, Sula Sula, where we enjoyed the experience of local hospitality - and air con! Some benefits of having to leave your floating home for a short while.
We returned to Laros and bade Tony farewell. Our visitors gone, we returned to boat routine - and maintenance - and you can guess can't you ...... the generator. How can a salt water pump, only 20 hours old turn up its toes? They say Galapagos is not a good place for boat repairs. We know different. Our agent, a young man by the name of Marvin , came up trumps, so generator, diesel, water, electric frying pan, as well as all the paperwork, reappeared repaired and ready for the next leg. Together with a new pressure cooker purchased on San Cristobal, we have never been so well served.
Our last excursion was a 4 day/3 night stay on San Cristobal to the east (was it the air-con again which extended the visit?). We shared a tour of the laguna, turtle breeding sanctuary and Playa Cinco with a year-long travelling Italian/Venezuelan couple. We snorkelled and dived on Kicker Rock to the west, and visited the Interpretation Centre and Playa Carola. On our third night we joined many familiar sailing faces at a tucked-away bar/restaurant for a music and catchup night. We are so lucky to be sailing in loose company with so many talented and different nationals. Backgrounds and experiences are so varied and colourful. One common thread is direction of sail. How many are not heading for NZ? Ah, yes, well Bill and Cathy on Terrwyn did leave on 1st April going way south heading to Hawaii 4000 miles to the north. That's the prevailing conditions for you.
So, as prepared as we can be, we finalised our provisioning and documentation, and made plans for the Marquesas. The call of the ocean, sailing across the South Pacific, and the attraction of a new culture in French Polynesia and the geology of the Marquesas islands and the Tuomotos, is enticing. We have done the Galapagos.
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